HotrodRaptor700
Finlayson, MN
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Joined: 11/27/2007
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As most of you know I had to have the Raptor's motor completly rebuilt this winter. I had my dealer do the work, cause I was to busy at the time. I trust their work and they had told me what to do for the break in period. I'm not new to having to break in a new motor, having done it before. Since I brought it home, it has sat do to the weather around here. This weekend is supposed to be in the 50's so saturday I'm going to take it out and run it for the first time. Just wondering what all you guys do for breaking in a new motor? I'm interested in learning more and really don't want to spend more money in the motor. List of new stuff - crank,cam chain, all valves, all rockers, piston, new cylinder, and its a full on stage 2 setup now. Thanks you for any info you guys have.
2006 Raptor 700 Lots of extra's and not done yet!
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princevaliant1975
Them big hills west of Denver
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Well your opening up a whole can of worms here. Your going to get a lot of differing opinions on the subject. Personally go with what you have done before. Take it easy for the first say 10 hours varying the RPM all the time but try to stay off the rev limiter and avoid lugging it. Change the oil often (every ride is what I do). I prefer using a conventional 10-30 dino oil before switching to my Amsoil fully syn. The conventional oil will help the rings seat and break in the cam. Ok now for the opinions to flood in.
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drummer89
Hurrrr.
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I break it in like I'm gonna ride it. It's never failed me.
#77 YFZ
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HotrodRaptor700
Finlayson, MN
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princevaliant1975 wrote:Well your opening up a whole can of worms here. Your going to get a lot of differing opinions on the subject. Personally go with what you have done before. Take it easy for the first say 10 hours varying the RPM all the time but try to stay off the rev limiter and avoid lugging it. Change the oil often (every ride is what I do). I prefer using a conventional 10-30 dino oil before switching to my Amsoil fully syn. The conventional oil will help the rings seat and break in the cam. Ok now for the opinions to flood in.
Yeah, I'm looking to make sure I do it right and you never know if something works better or not. The info you gave me is the samething I do, which is nice to know. Thanks!
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guinness77
Coos Bay, Oregon
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princevaliant1975 wrote:Well your opening up a whole can of worms here. Your going to get a lot of differing opinions on the subject. Personally go with what you have done before. Take it easy for the first say 10 hours varying the RPM all the time but try to stay off the rev limiter and avoid lugging it. Change the oil often (every ride is what I do). I prefer using a conventional 10-30 dino oil before switching to my Amsoil fully syn. The conventional oil will help the rings seat and break in the cam. Ok now for the opinions to flood in.
Good advice.
The synthetics can glaze a cylinder if you use it to break in a new motor.
The 2 schools or thought are typically called (A) "drive it like you stold it", and (B) a "gentle break in." Which one is better largly depends on what you want from the motor; slightly better performance, or slightly better reliability. There are about a hundred factors that can make a difference in that conclusion. That's why you're gonna have people screaming "No way buddy!" ... or ... "Yeah huh! Yes it is!" The observation I've provided is meant to be about as general as I humanly can make it.
Personaly... my wallet is thin. I stick with reliability.
04 402ex. Moose Works Power-up kit. K&N filter, WB E-Series pipe, ITP Sandstar II tires, Douglas .190 rims, ITP razor front tires, Kill switch, air scoops, and sheepskin seat cover (If I'm gonna be sittin, I want COMFORT BABY!)
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GreyGrizz
Ma.
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Joined: 01/25/2007
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Like PV said vary the RPM's and avoid redline. Old time rebuilders, and present day one's, have always told me to avoid a consistent RPM, on a new or rebuilt engine. This applies to 3 HP lawn mower engines, to 1500 HP Cat diesels. Also, like he said, changing the break-in oil, often is important too.
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bbqmaster
lompoc CA
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Joined: 04/11/2007
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princevaliant1975 wrote:Well your opening up a whole can of worms here. Your going to get a lot of differing opinions on the subject. Personally go with what you have done before. Take it easy for the first say 10 hours varying the RPM all the time but try to stay off the rev limiter and avoid lugging it. Change the oil often (every ride is what I do). I prefer using a conventional 10-30 dino oil before switching to my Amsoil fully syn. The conventional oil will help the rings seat and break in the cam. Ok now for the opinions to flood in.
what he said....if you dont want to judge by hours vary the rpm range never staying at one point on the throttle for more than a second or 2 for the first two tanks and change the oil after each tank of fuel i would use cheap-o oil and filters for these first two tanks since it is getting dumped after only a tank of fuel then you should be good to go.. ohhh and check the torque on your head bolts!!!! they may need to be re tightened a good way to tell if your getting any blow by is check the over flow for your coolant see where it is before and after you ride if it rises any your getting blow by
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comrad
California, Sacramento
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Joined: 08/02/2005
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drummer89 wrote:I break it in like I'm gonna ride it. It's never failed me.
Hell yeah, I break mine in on an MX track 
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HotrodRaptor700
Finlayson, MN
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Has anyone read the article in the May 2008 issue of ATVSPORT about the way the "PRO's" way to break in an engine? I wonder if it works good and it sounds like a long time to do it in a day.
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YOURADHERE
Louisiana
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Joined: 07/28/2006
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Do I haven't. Can you give some details?
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